Hot Selling for M2 Tool Steel | 1.3343 | HS-6-5-2C| SKH51 Manufacturer in Los Angeles
AISI M2 Tool Steel is molybdenum based high-speed steel in tungsten–molybdenum series. HSS grade steel M2 is a medium alloyed high speed steel which has good machinability. The H-SS M2 chemical composition gives a good combination of well-balanced toughness, wear resistance and red hardness properties. Widely used for cutting tools such as twist drills, taps, milling cutters, saws, knives etc. Also commonly used in cold work punches and dies and cutting applications involving high speed...
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is a medium alloyed high speed steel which has good machinability. The
H-SS M2 chemical composition gives a good combination of well-balanced
toughness, wear resistance and red hardness properties. Widely used for
cutting tools such as twist drills, taps, milling cutters, saws, knives
etc. Also commonly used in cold work punches and dies and cutting
applications involving high speed and light cuts.
Grade M2 High Speed Steel is by far the most popular high speed steel replacing high speed steel gradein most applications because of its superior properties and relative economy.
1. Common M2 Tool Steel Related Specifications and Equivalents
2. ASTM M2 Tool Steel Chemical Composition Properties
|M2 regular C||0.78||0.88||0.15||0.40||0.03||0.03||0.20||0.45||3.75||4.50||1.75||2.20||4.50||5.50||5.50||6.75|
|DIN ISO 4957||C||Mn||P||S||Si||Cr||V||Mo||W|
3. AISI HSS M2 Tool Steel Mechanical Properties
Physical Properties of HSS M2 Material
|Density||0.294 lb/in3 (8138 kg/m3)|
|Modulus of Elasticity||0.294 lb/in3 (8138 kg/m3)|
|Thermal conductivity||24 Btu/ft/hr/°F 41.5 W/m/°K|
|Machinability||65% of a 1% carbon steel|
AISI M2 Tool Steels Properties Mechanical
|Hardness, Rockwell C (tempered at 1150°F, quenched at 2200°F)||62||62|
|Hardness, Rockwell C (as hardened, quenched at 2200°F)||65||65|
|Compressive yield strength (when tempered at 300°F)||3250 MPa||471000 psi|
|Izod impact unnotched (when tempered at 300°F)||67 J||49.4 ft-lb|
|Abrasion (loss in mm3, as-hardened; ASTM G65)||25.8||25.8|
|Abrasion (loss in mm3, tempered at 1275°F; ASTM G65)||77.7||77.7|
|Elastic modulus||190-210 GPa||27557-30458 ksi|
M2 Steels Thermal Properties
|CTE, linear (@20.0 – 100°C/ 68.0 – 212°F)||10 μm/m°C||5.56 μin/in°F|
|CTE, linear (@20.0 – 500°C/68.0 – 932°F)||12.2 μm/m°C||6.78 μin/in°F|
|CTE, linear (@20.0 – 850°C/68.0 – 1560°F)||12.6 μm/m°C||7 μin/in°F|
4. Forging of AISI M2 High Speed Steel
heat M2 HSS steel slowly and uniformly to 850-900°C. The heat should
then be increased more quickly to the forging temperature of
1050-1150°C. If during the forging
the temperature of the M2 high speed tool steel material drops below
880-900°C, re-heating will be necessary. Cool the M2 steel component
very slowly after forging.
5. Heat Treatment of M2 Steel HSS
to 1600° F, soak thoroughly at heat. Furnace cool 25° F per hour to
900° F, air cool to room temperature. Approximate annealed hardness 241
Stress Relief of Unhardened Material: Heat slowly
to 1200 to 1250° F. Soak for two hours per inch of thickness at heat.
Slow cool (furnace cool if possible) to room temperature.
Preheat: Heat slowly to 1550° F, soak thoroughly, heat to 1850° F, soak thoroughly.
time in the furnace varies from a few minutes to a 15 minutes,
depending tool size, heat capacity of the furnace, and the size of the
charge. – Heat to 2150 to 2200° F for max. toughness and minimum
distortion. – Heat to 2250 to 2275° F for max. hardness and abrasion
hardness, oil quench to 150-200° F. Air quench to 150° F. When quenching
in hot salt maintain the quench just above the Ms temperature. After
equalizing withdraw parts from the hot salt and air cooled to 150° F.
temper is mandatory, three tempers are sometimes preferred. Soak for 2
hours per inch of thickness. Air cool to room temperature between
tempers. The best tempering range for hardness, strength and toughness
is 1000 to 1050° F.
|Temper° F||Rockwell “C”||Temper° F||Rockwell “C”|
6. Machinability of AISI M2 Tool Steel H-SS
of HSS M2 tool steels can be carried out using grinding methods.
However, they have poor grinding capability and hence they are regarded
as “medium” machinability tool steel under annealed conditions. The
machinability of these tool steels M2 is only 50% of that of the easily
machinable W group or water hardening tool steels.
7. M2 Tool Steel Applications
The main use of high-speed steels continues to be in the manufacture of various cutting tools.
applications for M2 high speed steel are twist drills, reamers,
broaching tools, taps, milling tools, metal saws. M2 is suitable for
cold forming tools such as extrusion rams and dies, also widely used in
all kinds of cutting tools, knife and punches and die applications,
plastic moulds with elevated wear resistance and screws.
Machining, Hardening And Tempering A Form Tool For The Lathe, by Clickspring
There’s something really classy about the old style rope knurls that you often see on tools made around the turn of the 19th century. Making them is quite an involved process, and one of the steps involves making a form tool to prepare the work surface for the impending knurl.
This is the first video in a series of at least 3, that will relate to the subject of these beautiful ornamental knurl patterns
The main project video that this video is related to is “Machining A Set Of ‘Vintage Style’ Rope Knurls “: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9pD5vIHJ8M
Free plans for the double angled cutter, and form tool:
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring
Ask Me A Question:
00:05 I’m about to make some brass thumbwheels, with a vintage style rope knurl. But before I can form the knurl pattern, I need to shape the brass perimeter, so that the knurling tool will work correctly, and I’m going to do it using a form tool like this.
00:20 The profile of the cutter is reasonably straight forward, but the relief angles require a bit of planning. I’ve chosen 10 degrees as the relief angle, and I should be able to take care of these front faces on the mill.
00:29 Ideally I’d cut the central section with a tapered end mill, but I don’t have one. So instead I’ll drill it out and then finish it off by hand using a file. So starting with some 1/4″ O1 tool steel, I cut off a section, and then squared it up on the mill.
00:54 Using this angle block, I set the work on a 10 degree angle in the vise, and then milled a datum face. I’m going to use the digital readout and this sharpened carbide rod to mark out some key points and lines. I milled a small flat for the drill point, and then drilled out the central section of the cutter profile.
01:49 Ok so next I need to mill the work down to this reference line, as well as across to this corner, while at the same time generating the relief angles. I can take care of the main relief angle in a similar way as before, by using the angle block to tilt the work in the vise.
02:05 And the second angle can be generated by using the swivel base of the vise. It’s not super accurate, but the relief angles don’t need to be overly precise, so its close enough for what I’m doing here today.
02:33 This section here needs to be profiled into a curve, while at the same time generating the 10 degree relief. I think the easiest way to tackle this is to use the belt sander, so I’ve tilted the table to 10 degrees, to match the other face angles, and then using a 400 grit belt, I formed the curve.
03:05 The curved section terminates at the point I marked out with the dro, and I’ve sanded as far into the corner as I dared, without risking the profile.
03:42 A quick rub on an oilstone takes care of the small burrs, and that’s the bulk of the hard work done. The top profile has come through the process mostly unscathed, and all of the cutting edges now have the required relief.
03:58 The last step is to quench harden the steel, and temper the cutting edge to a light straw. A quick polish on this oilstone, and its ready to be put to work.
04:28 A form tool like is a great way to get a repeatable profile onto a short run of parts. There’s a few drawbacks in using them though, that are worth mentioning.
04:37 Firstly, there’s a lot of cutter surface in contact with the work, particularly when it gets to the full depth, so it really is quite hard work for a small lathe like this. This cutter is about 15mm wide, and I’d say that its at the upper limit of what my lathe can cope with before it simply stalls.
04:50 Secondly chatter on a tool like this is pretty much unavoidable. But I’ve found that using a low rpm and keeping everything as rigid as possible makes it quite manageable.
05:25 Thanks for watching, I’ll see you later. If you’d like to see how the rope knurl pattern turned out, here’s the video covering that process.
Frank Ford (Luthier/Machinist)
Machining, Hardening And Tempering A Form Tool For The Lathe, by Clickspring
How to make a tanto tip survival knife,
how to make a hunting,camping,survival knife at home from the stock removal method.
1.draw out knife on a heat treatable steel (1095,01,) not mild steel
2.cut out the knife blank and grind it to shape ( angle grinder,bench grinder or files )
3.bevel the knife ( i like to use files )
4.heat treat the knife, heat the steel up until its non magnetic and then quench it in oil or water ( depending on the steel )
5. temper the knife, heat it up in an oven to the tempering temperature for that steel and leave it in so you get the hardness that you want.
6. polish, sharpen and attach handle scales ( aluminum and wood are good and cheap )